Without doubt, one of my best meals in Vienna was at Zum roten Elefanten in the sixth district. Recommended by both the paper of record, close friends and my twin sister, we had to go and have a family dinner there.Turns out our six o'clock reservation was not necessary, as the place was virtually empty, only to fill up very fast as the evening progressed. The restaurant is minimalist, small by American standards, with clean, clear lines and a nice bar. It certainky had all the characteristics of a great French restaurant, including tables that are very close together, which my father despises. Still, he was very pleased; and the food won him over. I'll tell you why.
In French style, Zum roten Elefanten (The red elephant) offers a prix fixe menu with a twist. You can order a full three-course menu with either soup or appetizer, entree and desert or order any item a la carte at reasonable prices. We all chose the three-course combo, and my mille feuille with eggplant was light, crisp, and to-die for. My brother-in-law had the very traditional -- and downright excellent -- canard à l'orange, while my Dad chose the wish of the day. For desert, I chose the traditional crème brûlée, which certainly did it justice. My mom had the cheese platter, which consisted of a fantastic, small selection of artisan cheeses. The other desert option was a fantastic homemade gelato. The three-course menus run between 18 and 22 Euro.
We accompanied our lavish meal with two bottles of excellent red Austrian Zweigelt. Service was efficient and uncomplicated, and the dining room was run by one affable waiter, as is customary in Europe. However, he did a good job at keeping our glasses filled and our food moving at an appropiate speed. The only thing missing from the place are white tablecloths. What can I say: I am a sucker for white tablecloths: it just adds an extra ounce of sophistication to everything.
Zum roten Elefanten is a fantastic choice for a traditional French meal in Vienna. They are also open for lunch.
Zum roten Elefanten (website in German only)
Gumpendorferstrasse 3
1060 Vienna, Sixth District
Phone: (01) 966 8008
--By Judy Jenner
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