Café C'est Si Bon: Most Charming Desert Restaurant

This was our second visit to charming C'est Si Bon in tiny Shoshone, CA, roughly 1.5 hours from Vegas. On our way to Death Valley, we decided to drive through Pahrump versus Beatty with the sole purpose of having a late breakfast at this incredible food find. We were traveling with our very good friends Tina and Fritz from Europe, and we wanted to show them the other side of Vegas.

When we arrived in Shoshone, C'est Si Bon was closed. A few minutes later, owner David Wash um materialized, saying he'd been on vacation for a bit. We completely understood and were on our way to have lunch at say, the gas station, when David said that, since we were there, he'd be more than happy to make us breakfast.

All four of us had David's special crêpe, which we've had before. It's filled with delicious cheese, and comes with a drizzle of a Thai sauce and a portion of salad made with fresh tomatoes, lots of cilantro, pine nuts, and red cabbage (and perhaps a few other fantastic things). It was crisp, refreshing, and full of bold, unexpected flavors. Our European guests especially liked the Lavazza coffees -- lattes and espressos. The chef-owner runs his operation as green as possible, and the small restaurant is like a treasure hunt, chock-full of goodies, such as locally made items, books, brochures, carefully selected trinkets from around the workd, etc. You could just grab a book and read all day, or chat with David and anyone else who shows up about sustainable living, the gourmet food world, violence in schools, and desert living. We could use a place like this in Vegas, but doesn't look like David misses his old F&B world in the city very much...

Sure, it's not as close to Vegas as say, brunch at Simon's at the Palms, but C'est Si Bon is an truly memorable experience. As some other Austrians say: we will be back; soon.

Café C'est Si Bon
Highway 127
Shoshone, CA 92384

--By Judy Jenner

Vegas Food Finds Goes to Vienna: Naschmarkt

A true foodies' paradise, the legendary Vienna Naschmarkt is one of the most frequented gourmet markets in the city. If you can't buy it here, it probably doesn't exist. The Naschmarkt is open every day, and in addition to permanent stands, there are dozens of small, hip restaurants, which are open at night as well -- the Naschmarkt is moving towards becoming a hotspot for evening. Saturday is the most important day of the week for the market, as hundreds of non-permanent stands cover the area, selling everything from highly exotic organic produce to homemade jams by local farmers to Turkish spices to specialty teas, portioned off according to preferences. One of my favorite buys was a very high-end olive dipping oil from the famous Gegenbauer family, which has long been known to sell some of the best oils and vinegars in the country. This isn't your typical EVOO, and it's too expensive for cooking, but it's certainly worth it. I also bought a bottle of pumpkin seed oil, a specialty Austrian oil, for my friend and fellow blogger Nikki.

The additonal bonus on Saturday is the adjoining flea market, which is quite a feast for the senses. Only caveat: watch your purse.

The story of the Naschmarkt ist best told in pictures -- enjoy!

Vegas Food Finds Goes to Vienna: Best Antipasti

This is the place I've been looking for: small, cozy, owner-run, unpretentious, afforable, and close to home. The only problem is that it's in Vienna and not in Vegas.

Vinoteca Tropea is the brainchild -- and labor of love -- of IT guru and passionate foodie Joachim Egger, who runs the place and the stove in the small, but very functional kitchen. The night we were there, he'd prepared several traditional Italian dishes, including a vegetable lasagna, a meat lasagna, spaghetti a la carbonara (the real deal: with fantastic pancetta, egg, and cream) and calamari in red sauce. He was also working on a whole Mediterranean fish that we saw come out of the oven. We ordered for the large antipasti platter, which included high-end selections of southern European meats and cheeses. The platter came with plenty of olives (tiny black and green), large sun-dried tomatoes and fantastic marinated zucchini (which Egger buys locally in Italy) and a nice bread basket. The olive oil for dipping was tasty and strong. We sampled several of their house wines and they were consistently strong and went well with our food. They even have a California Zinfandel if you want to feel at home.

We were so full and content post-antipasti that we resisted the main course, even though the smells coming from the very nearby kitchen were difficult to ignore. The main thing about this place -- in addition to the as-to-be-expected solid food -- is its fantastic atmosphere. You really do feel at home, except my living room doesn't look like the inside of a cozy wine barrel, doesn't have an old, chest-high wood counter and certainly doesn't have Italian delicacies piled high on tables (for sale).

Joachim is a charming host, and he envisioned a comfortable, relaxing environment to enjoy food and great conversation. He's certainly achieved that.

Vinoteca Tropea is a fantastic place to have a tasty lunch, to get together with friends for a drink after work or to hang out on the weekends. It's on an unassuming street in the 6th district, but sometimes, the less ostentatious the exterior, the better the inside. Don't miss this adorable hole-in-the-wall.

Vinoteca Tropea (website in German only)
Hofmühlgasse 15
1060 Vienna, Sixth District
Phone: 0669/110 33 747

--By Judy Jenner

Vegas Food Finds Goes to Vienna: Café Residenz

It's official: we are now reviewing coffee shops -- as we cannot resist them. In Vienna, there's a great one at every corner, including many venerable ones, and some that true hidden treasures.

Café Residenz falls in the first category, not only because of its stellar location at Schoenbrunn Palace, but also because of its hard-to-beat Landtmann cakes and other sweet delicacies. It was our second visit to Café Residenz, and it was just as good as the first time: (friendly!) tuxedoed waiters, free newspapers to read and browse (mounted on the traditional Viennese wooden holders), cakes as you won't find anywhere else on the planet, and comfortable tables and cushioned benches that invite you to linger. Ah, that, and no one rushes you and brings you the bill, unless you ask for it.

This is the place to have your cake and eat it, too, so we did. My twin chose the decadent Maronitorte (sweet chestnut cake), which was divine -- and very rich. I ordered the very Austrian Buchteln (sweet brioche in decadent vanilla sauce), and they were worth every calorie. Again, just like at Café Hofburg, this is a pricey place: every slice of cake is around 4 Euro, but you really do get your money's worth. You can start your diet tomorrow.

Café Residenz at Schoennbrun Palace (website in German only)
Kavalierstrakt 52,
1130 Vienna
Phone: 01/24 100 - 0

--By Judy Jennner

Vegas Food Finds Goes to Vienna: Best Neighborhood Restaurant

I am constantly searching for the perfect hole-in-the-wall family restaurant with fantastic food, friendly service, reasonable prices, a delightful ambiance and a laid-back vibe. This is more challenging than it sounds, but I have now stumbled upon one in Vienna.

Goldmarie in the 12th district (Meidling, for the uninitiated) is the one restaurant in the last six months that I've completely fallen for. From the outside, Goldmarie looks just dilapidated enough to be tragically hip and bohemian. As soon as I opened the old wooden door, I knew I had arrived.

Ambience is usually challenging to describe, so I will let the images do it justice. Suffice it to say that I felt immediately transported to a place at the turn of the century where the traditional Gasthaus (traditional, basic restaurant) was the center of the neighborhood, where people congregated in the evenings to have a beeer or two (or three, or four). The place has what appear to be original wood floors, charming antique furniture stock-full of gorgeous trinkets, a mid-sized sun-filled dining room, a high dark-wood counter straight out of 1920, and -- white tablecloths. I'm a sucker for white tablecloths (high-end restaurants: please take notice).

The prices are very crisis-friendly, with daily menus (which include soup or salad) at 5.90 Euro.My twin sister, Dagmar, and I both ate Eiernockerln (roughly: pasta dumplings with eggs) with a green salad, and they were as good as at any restaurant at double the price. Whenever I eat out in Austria, I like to order organic, naturally "cloudy" apple or pear juice mixed with water. Goldmarie featured an especially delightful liquid -- it was fantastic: refreshing and light., very appropiate for a spring-like day. The lunch menu was solidly dominated by reliable Austrian staples (including Schnitzel, baked mushrooms, Gulasch, etc.) and judging by the happy (multilingual) voices at the other tables, everyone else was as happy as we were.

As we dug in, we marveled at the fact that not more places like this exist. They should, and they deserve our business and our praise. We promised our friendly server (owner?) that we'd tell our friends about it, and how couldn't we? So, when you are in Vienna, take the U-6 metro (direction Siebenhirten) and get out at Philadelphiabruecke. From there, it's a 5-minute walk to one of the best neighborhood restaurants I've eaten at lately. Sure, it's not the first district, but you won't find a restaurant like this in a touristy area anyway.

As opposed to most restaurants in Austria, Goldmarie is open all day on Sunday.

Gasthaus Goldmarie (website in German only)
Hoffmeistergasse 7
1120 Vienna, 12th district (Meidling)
Phone: 01/817-0158


--By Judy Jenner

Vegas Food Finds Loves Viennese Street Food

Vienna is known, among other things, for its fantastic little stands (Würstlstand in "Austrian") that sell sausages of all kinds. Late-night opera goers, dressed in evening gowns, have been known to grab a snack at these humble, very egalitarian places, and I've loved them since I was a kid. Sure, they are not fancy, and you have to stand while eating your Käsekrainer (a sausage with cheese), but it's, well, very Austrian. And it's really good, albeit not healthy. During my seven weeks in Europe, we've made many stops at these little stands, mainly in the first district.

The selection is usually pretty good, and there are sausages of all kinds, with a strong emphasis on Frankfurter, Käsekrainer, Bratwurst, Weisswurst, etc. The mini-meal usually comes with your choice of a slice of fabulous dark bread or Semmel (roll) and a portion of sweet or spicey mustard (or ketchup, but mustard works much better). And yes, extra mustard is, well, extra. The plates are either covered in plastic or which a big piece of wax paper (sounds familiar from Mexican taco stands?) for easy cleaning. I've always loved the small, organized microcosmos that is the Würstlstand, and it's a true Austrian icon. It used to be really cheap, but it's really not anymore -- one sausage, including bread, usually runs in the 3 - 4 Euro range.

--By Judy Jenner

Vegas Food Finds Goes to Vienna: Café Hofburg

So much for not reviewing coffee houses: I just can't stay away. In my quest to visit as many traditional Viennese cafés as possible during my stay, we went to the venerable Café Hofburg, located in the middle of the very impressive Hofburg (Imperial Palace). It sits on a gorgeous, very large inside patio, which makes for fantastic outdoor seating in the summer. On this rainy and chilly day, we took refuge inside.

Just a warning: sure, it's pricey. The coffee will run you 4.20 Euro (yes, on a silver tray, and this is per cup, not unlimited refills) and the same for the delectable slices of hard-to-beat Viennese cake art. For the same price, you could probably have brunch at Simon's in Vegas -- but this is so much better. The café has strange opening hours, as it's connected to the well-known Sisi museum, and closes at 6 p.m. in the winter, so come early.

The place is chic and very Viennese (comfortable tables, large windows, chandeliers, waiters in tuxedoes, painfully restored antique furniture) and service is unexpectedly friendly. If you are looking for a for-sure bet that is worth the many calories, this is your place, as the café gets its pastries from the capital's finest culinary outposts: Landtmann. You will never be able to eat a cake from Albertson's (or Costco, or even Freed's) again.

Café Hofburg (German only)
Open every day from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m.
1010 Vienna, First District
Inside the Imperial Palace (inside patio)
Phone: 01/24100-0

--By Judy Jenner

Vegas Food Finds Goes to Vienna: Café Hawelka

While we usually don't review coffee shops, we had to make an exception for the venerable and time-worn Café Hawelka, a true cultural institution in the heart of Vienna's posh first district.

Even though I am originally from Austria, I am still very drawn to coffee shops. I haven't lived here in more than a decade, so I cheerfully flock to any coffee shop I can get to, just so I can have a real cup of coffee on a tiny silver tray with a small glass of tap water. This is how coffee should be served, in my humble opinion. It's not Starbucks, and that's a good thing.

Even though most of these places are still for smokers (in spite of a recently introduced, complicated non-smoking-area law), I am still, for some reason, totally delighted. It must be my nostalgia for all things Austrian. While my twin isn't amused by smoky rooms, rude waiters and furniture that's long past its prime, I still enjoy it. It's just so different from Vegas.

Café Hawelka tops the list of gently run-down coffee shops and certainly wouldn't last very long in the U.S. However, it's not hard to picture past cultural greats sitting at nearby tables, as they have done in the café's long history. Sure, there was a draft coming from the windows, which were, well, old. Legend has it that the place hasn't been renovated since the 60s, and it shows. The waiter, however, wasn't rude, and the coffee was top-notch. We stayed an extra hour just to get our hands on the famous Buchteln (an Austrian pastry filled with jam) that the place is known for -- they were delicious; straight out of the oven.

You'd think that because the place has seen better days, that the coffee would be cheap. It's not, but it's a historical place, and it's worth it. It's located a stone's throw from St. Stephen's cathedral (which, by the way, needs a good cleaning), and should be on any visitors' list:tourists, locals, and everyone in between.

Cafe Hawelka (forgive the horrendous translations!)
Dorotheergasse 6
1010 Vienna, First District
Phone: (01) 512 82 30

--By Judy Jenner

Vegas Food Finds Goes to Vienna: Zum roten Elefanten

Without doubt, one of my best meals in Vienna was at Zum roten Elefanten in the sixth district. Recommended by both the paper of record, close friends and my twin sister, we had to go and have a family dinner there.

Turns out our six o'clock reservation was not necessary, as the place was virtually empty, only to fill up very fast as the evening progressed. The restaurant is minimalist, small by American standards, with clean, clear lines and a nice bar. It certainky had all the characteristics of a great French restaurant, including tables that are very close together, which my father despises. Still, he was very pleased; and the food won him over. I'll tell you why.

In French style, Zum roten Elefanten (The red elephant) offers a prix fixe menu with a twist. You can order a full three-course menu with either soup or appetizer, entree and desert or order any item a la carte at reasonable prices. We all chose the three-course combo, and my mille feuille with eggplant was light, crisp, and to-die for. My brother-in-law had the very traditional -- and downright excellent -- canard à l'orange, while my Dad chose the wish of the day. For desert, I chose the traditional crème brûlée, which certainly did it justice. My mom had the cheese platter, which consisted of a fantastic, small selection of artisan cheeses. The other desert option was a fantastic homemade gelato. The three-course menus run between 18 and 22 Euro.

We accompanied our lavish meal with two bottles of excellent red Austrian Zweigelt. Service was efficient and uncomplicated, and the dining room was run by one affable waiter, as is customary in Europe. However, he did a good job at keeping our glasses filled and our food moving at an appropiate speed. The only thing missing from the place are white tablecloths. What can I say: I am a sucker for white tablecloths: it just adds an extra ounce of sophistication to everything.

Zum roten Elefanten is a fantastic choice for a traditional French meal in Vienna. They are also open for lunch.

Zum roten Elefanten (website in German only)
Gumpendorferstrasse 3
1060 Vienna, Sixth District
Phone: (01) 966 8008

--By Judy Jenner