Eating Like a Queen for $6.50

Our friends at the Las Vegas Weekly just came out with their list of Vegas’ Best, and I’d eaten at all the restaurants that made the list minus one: Noodle Palace in Chinatown. That’s yet another unoriginal name for a restaurant. Perhaps they need to hire a copywriter? But I digress.

Noodle Palace won the “best place to eat under $10” category, and in times like these, that’s fantastic. We all generally know that eating at small, ethnic restaurants can be much more cost-effective than eating at their American-style counterparts, but this deal seemed too good to be true. With the Las Vegas Weekly in town, we set out for Chinatown.

Noodle Palace is located in Chinatown (Spring Mountain Road between Decatur and Lindell), in the same small plaza as one of my other favorites, Hue Thai Sandwiches, next to a less-than-legit-looking massage place and a Latin American imports place with an apostrophe atrocity in its name (Vegas Import’s). The place is spotless and simple, well lit with a semi-open kitchen.

Service is speedy and friendly, with two very efficient waitresses running the place. I told our server about the honor the restaurant had just won, but she seemed unimpressed, or perhaps it was a language barrier. I ordered the won ton soup that I had come for – a total of $6.50. I was amazed when it showed up on our table, in a huge bowl that looked more like a soup pot that you would get at a Thai place. They brought two soup bowls for us to share. The well-seasoned broth was full of noodles and almost ten shrimp dumplings, which were delicious and fresh. This dish alone could have fed both the very hungry husband and I. His eyes were bigger than his stomach, and he went for the dim sum plate (we declined the offer of adding chicken feet to the platter), which was a meal in itself. The ribs were particularly outstanding, as were the yeasty dumplings filled with meat.

Finally, we ordered the salt and pepper pork chops. We were envisioning one pork chop, but instead, we were served an enormous plate with pieces of pork chop that had been breaded and deep-fried and salted. They were crispy, delicious, and had just the right amount of salt – think French fries, only much, much better. The extensive menu includes mainly dishes for less than $10, including family combination dinners for two or more diners.

For a grand total of $21.98 excluding tip, our entire table was covered in food and we took at least one meal home. The green tea is on the house. For the convenience of non-Chinese speakers, the menu is in both Chinese and English (no pictures, though).

Real Mexico City Food at Los Antojos

Sure, you won’t run into Britney Spears here. Surely Criss Angel, any B-list celebrity or American Idol contestant won’t be anywhere near this place, but rest assured: Los Antojos is the best Mexico City food I’ve found in Vegas in more than 14 years.

I know my Mexico City food: I grew up there. There might be a few things you have never heard off, but you definitely won’t find any burritos here. Los Antojos is located on Eastern and Sahara (granted, not the best place in town), but it is very much worth a foodie excursion. Although it doesn’t hurt to bring someone who speaks Spanish, the menu is in English, with handy images on the wall so you know what you are eating. The Mexican tortas (basically, Mexican sandwiches) are to die for, and the tacos are prepared here as they should: only a corn tortilla, whichever meat you choose (recommended: al pastor, carnitas, alambre) and some cilantro and onion. There are salsas available on the very simple tables.

A caveat: this is not a place to take a client or impress a date. It’s a tiny place with a walk-up counter and Mexican telenovelas playing on the TV. The owner is an affable chilango (a person from Mexico City), and he truly loves his food. Regardless of the 20-mile drive from my house in Summerlin, I have a feeling this will be one of my new favorites. I briefly considered keeping this place the well-kept secret that it still is, but it’s too good not to be shared.

Los Antojos
2520 S Eastern Ave
Las Vegas, NV
Phone: (702) 457-3505

--By Judy Jenner

Lindo Michoacán: Best Guacamole in Town

Among the hundreds of Mexican restaurants in Vegas, there are a handful really good ones. The first one I ever went to, back in 1995, a few months after I had moved to town, was Lindo Michoacán on E. Desert Inn, between Eastern and Pecos. Back then, it was a little-known gem, and since I grew up in Mexico City, I felt almost at home there. In the years to follow, Lindo (as it is affectionately known), has become a bit less Mexican and more mainstream (who really wants fries with their Mexican torta, a pressed sandwich?), but still very good. The original Lindo burned down one Thanksgiving weekend, only to come back stronger than before, in its original location and beyond.

I am delighted with Lindo’s decision to open a restaurant for us Summerlin folks, on 215 and Flamingo (at Hualapai). They have dozens of fantastic lunch options starting at $6.99, which include a drink (oddly, with one refill). Their grilled shrimp with garlic (camarones al mojo de ajo) are excellent, and my husband really enjoyed his fish tacos. My father-in-law was happy with his decidedly un-Mexican taco salad. While this is a relatively upscale restaurant where you don’t need to bring a Spanish-speaker to help you decipher the menu, the owners give few translations under the lunch specials. It will say “carne a la tampiqueña” with no explanation. However, the friendly staff can help out.

My favorite part at Lindo is the guacamole, which is still made tableside, as it should. This practice is less common these days because of cutbacks in staffing (including at Agave). Lindo makes a guacamole to rival my own, and includes all the right ingredients: two Haas avocados, plenty of chopped cilantro, jalapeño peppers (as desired), onion, tomatoes, lime, salt, and pepper. The Mexican version of soft drinks, aguas frescas, are, unfortunately, made from syrup and not made in-house, but they are delicious nonetheless. Try jamaica (hibiscus).

Best Happy Hour + Tapas

Café Ba-Ba-Reeba, on the street level of the Fashion Show Mall right across from Wynn, has been one of my favorite happy hour places for years. You can’t beat it: half-price on sangría pitchers (many varieties to choose from; typically, I go with the traditional red) and a good selection of tapas (small appetizers meant to be shared with the table) for $3. Many times, when I invite friends to go have tapas, for some reason, they think I am saying “topless.” I have to explain that no, we are not going to eat at a strip club, even though that is also possible in Vegas.

We choce Café Ba-Ba-Reeba again a few weeks ago during Earth Hour, when (almost) all of the lights on the Strip were turned off. The patio at the restaurant – I can’t resist al fresco dining – was excellent.

Some of my favorites include the traditional tortilla española (nothing to do with the Mexican tortilla; this is based on eggs and potatoes), the albóndigas (Spanish meatballs) and dates wrapped in bacon (just pretend they have no calories).

Happy hour is from 4 p.m. to 7 p.m. Monday through Friday, bar area only, so get there early unless you enjoy fighting big groups of girls for tables after a long week!

Café Ba-Ba-Reeba at the Fashion Show Mall
3200 Las Vegas Blvd. South
Las Vegas, Nevada 89109
(702) 258-1211

--By Judy Jennner

Himalayan food in Vegas

Let’s give a warm Vegas welcome (none of that jaded applause) to our only Himalayan restaurant in town, the not very originally named Himalayan Cuisine. It’s been here quite a while, but has remained largely undiscovered, which might be partially due to its location (in a strip mall, next to a payday loan office) on Flamingo between Maryland and Swenson and folks’ lack of knowledge of what Himalayan food is supposed to be.

My globetrotting husband, who ate his way across the Himalayas until he reached the base camp of Mount Everest, enlightened me. Basically, it’s an interesting mix of Indian, Nepalese and Tibetan cuisine. We have a lot of fantastic Indian restaurants in town (India Oven, the newly remodeled India Palace, Origin India, Gaylord’s at the Rio, etc.), but this combination is certainly very unique in the valley.

The place is small and comfy, with simple décor (think Himalayan posters) and booths and tables. Our party of four ethnically diverse people started off with a nice bottle of blended white Californian wine (three types of grapes versus two seems to be the new hip thing to do) and, in an attempt at food democracy, chose the Nepalese and the Indian sampler platter. We weren’t sure if it would be enough for a haven’t-eaten-since-breakfast dentist, a very hungry lawyer, a foodie writer and a foodie HR manager, but it sure was, and would have prepared us well for a hike in the Himalayas. The Indian platter included many classics such as organic tandoori chicken (well seasoned), lentils, mixed vegetable curries (just right on the spices), a refreshing homemade yoghurt, lamb vindaloo, vegetable pakodas and a few other delicacies, all nicely portioned in small stainless-steel cups. The Nepalese platter, on the other hand, was full of unexpected and delightful flavors, including mighty momos (dumplings stuffed with ground turkey), kakro salad (Himalayan cucumber salad with lemon and sesame seeds), kwati soup (lentils and beans), and five other excellent dishes.

Himalayan Cuisine offers a creative weekday "recession lunch" for $5.99, which includes the entreé of the day.

Himalayan Cuisine
730 E. Flamingo Road
Phone: 894-9334

--By Judy Jenner

Vegas Food Finds Goes to Lake Tahoe: Best Sandwich

On a recent short business trip to Reno, I took some extra time the day after and headed to Lake Tahoe with Rossana, a business partner and friend, and her adorable 7-year-old girl, Allegra. My friend Rossana had lived in Incline Village for a few years, and I was delighted to hear that she had an insider's tip: buying a sandwich in Incline Village, at an unassuming convenience store, and then eating it on a picnic bench on the beach, right next to the lake.

We headed to Grog & Grist (800 Tahoe Blvd., Incline Village, CA), a place I would have probably not stumbled upon myself. On a lazy Sunday, the two employees behind the very well-stocked sandwich counter weren't too thrilled or too quick, but it was worth the wait. I had my all-veggie sandwich (thick wheat bread, full of very fresh veggies, including cucumber, lots of sprouts, tomatoes, lettuce, etc.) right on the beach, on the park bench, as intended. The picture on the right is sans sandwiches -- they were gone too fast. Allegra, not a picky eater at all, really liked her tuna salad sandwich as well.

As much as I love fancy restaurants and white table cloths, I'd take a sandwich on Lake Tahoe, sitting in the sun, talking to a friend and looking out onto the pristine lake any day of the week. Ah, the simple pleasures in life....

--By Judy Jenner

Café C'est Si Bon: Most Charming Desert Restaurant

This was our second visit to charming C'est Si Bon in tiny Shoshone, CA, roughly 1.5 hours from Vegas. On our way to Death Valley, we decided to drive through Pahrump versus Beatty with the sole purpose of having a late breakfast at this incredible food find. We were traveling with our very good friends Tina and Fritz from Europe, and we wanted to show them the other side of Vegas.

When we arrived in Shoshone, C'est Si Bon was closed. A few minutes later, owner David Wash um materialized, saying he'd been on vacation for a bit. We completely understood and were on our way to have lunch at say, the gas station, when David said that, since we were there, he'd be more than happy to make us breakfast.

All four of us had David's special crêpe, which we've had before. It's filled with delicious cheese, and comes with a drizzle of a Thai sauce and a portion of salad made with fresh tomatoes, lots of cilantro, pine nuts, and red cabbage (and perhaps a few other fantastic things). It was crisp, refreshing, and full of bold, unexpected flavors. Our European guests especially liked the Lavazza coffees -- lattes and espressos. The chef-owner runs his operation as green as possible, and the small restaurant is like a treasure hunt, chock-full of goodies, such as locally made items, books, brochures, carefully selected trinkets from around the workd, etc. You could just grab a book and read all day, or chat with David and anyone else who shows up about sustainable living, the gourmet food world, violence in schools, and desert living. We could use a place like this in Vegas, but doesn't look like David misses his old F&B world in the city very much...

Sure, it's not as close to Vegas as say, brunch at Simon's at the Palms, but C'est Si Bon is an truly memorable experience. As some other Austrians say: we will be back; soon.

Café C'est Si Bon
Highway 127
Shoshone, CA 92384

--By Judy Jenner

Vegas Food Finds Goes to Vienna: Naschmarkt

A true foodies' paradise, the legendary Vienna Naschmarkt is one of the most frequented gourmet markets in the city. If you can't buy it here, it probably doesn't exist. The Naschmarkt is open every day, and in addition to permanent stands, there are dozens of small, hip restaurants, which are open at night as well -- the Naschmarkt is moving towards becoming a hotspot for evening. Saturday is the most important day of the week for the market, as hundreds of non-permanent stands cover the area, selling everything from highly exotic organic produce to homemade jams by local farmers to Turkish spices to specialty teas, portioned off according to preferences. One of my favorite buys was a very high-end olive dipping oil from the famous Gegenbauer family, which has long been known to sell some of the best oils and vinegars in the country. This isn't your typical EVOO, and it's too expensive for cooking, but it's certainly worth it. I also bought a bottle of pumpkin seed oil, a specialty Austrian oil, for my friend and fellow blogger Nikki.

The additonal bonus on Saturday is the adjoining flea market, which is quite a feast for the senses. Only caveat: watch your purse.

The story of the Naschmarkt ist best told in pictures -- enjoy!

Vegas Food Finds Goes to Vienna: Best Antipasti

This is the place I've been looking for: small, cozy, owner-run, unpretentious, afforable, and close to home. The only problem is that it's in Vienna and not in Vegas.

Vinoteca Tropea is the brainchild -- and labor of love -- of IT guru and passionate foodie Joachim Egger, who runs the place and the stove in the small, but very functional kitchen. The night we were there, he'd prepared several traditional Italian dishes, including a vegetable lasagna, a meat lasagna, spaghetti a la carbonara (the real deal: with fantastic pancetta, egg, and cream) and calamari in red sauce. He was also working on a whole Mediterranean fish that we saw come out of the oven. We ordered for the large antipasti platter, which included high-end selections of southern European meats and cheeses. The platter came with plenty of olives (tiny black and green), large sun-dried tomatoes and fantastic marinated zucchini (which Egger buys locally in Italy) and a nice bread basket. The olive oil for dipping was tasty and strong. We sampled several of their house wines and they were consistently strong and went well with our food. They even have a California Zinfandel if you want to feel at home.

We were so full and content post-antipasti that we resisted the main course, even though the smells coming from the very nearby kitchen were difficult to ignore. The main thing about this place -- in addition to the as-to-be-expected solid food -- is its fantastic atmosphere. You really do feel at home, except my living room doesn't look like the inside of a cozy wine barrel, doesn't have an old, chest-high wood counter and certainly doesn't have Italian delicacies piled high on tables (for sale).

Joachim is a charming host, and he envisioned a comfortable, relaxing environment to enjoy food and great conversation. He's certainly achieved that.

Vinoteca Tropea is a fantastic place to have a tasty lunch, to get together with friends for a drink after work or to hang out on the weekends. It's on an unassuming street in the 6th district, but sometimes, the less ostentatious the exterior, the better the inside. Don't miss this adorable hole-in-the-wall.

Vinoteca Tropea (website in German only)
Hofmühlgasse 15
1060 Vienna, Sixth District
Phone: 0669/110 33 747

--By Judy Jenner

Vegas Food Finds Goes to Vienna: Café Residenz

It's official: we are now reviewing coffee shops -- as we cannot resist them. In Vienna, there's a great one at every corner, including many venerable ones, and some that true hidden treasures.

Café Residenz falls in the first category, not only because of its stellar location at Schoenbrunn Palace, but also because of its hard-to-beat Landtmann cakes and other sweet delicacies. It was our second visit to Café Residenz, and it was just as good as the first time: (friendly!) tuxedoed waiters, free newspapers to read and browse (mounted on the traditional Viennese wooden holders), cakes as you won't find anywhere else on the planet, and comfortable tables and cushioned benches that invite you to linger. Ah, that, and no one rushes you and brings you the bill, unless you ask for it.

This is the place to have your cake and eat it, too, so we did. My twin chose the decadent Maronitorte (sweet chestnut cake), which was divine -- and very rich. I ordered the very Austrian Buchteln (sweet brioche in decadent vanilla sauce), and they were worth every calorie. Again, just like at Café Hofburg, this is a pricey place: every slice of cake is around 4 Euro, but you really do get your money's worth. You can start your diet tomorrow.

Café Residenz at Schoennbrun Palace (website in German only)
Kavalierstrakt 52,
1130 Vienna
Phone: 01/24 100 - 0

--By Judy Jennner

Vegas Food Finds Goes to Vienna: Best Neighborhood Restaurant

I am constantly searching for the perfect hole-in-the-wall family restaurant with fantastic food, friendly service, reasonable prices, a delightful ambiance and a laid-back vibe. This is more challenging than it sounds, but I have now stumbled upon one in Vienna.

Goldmarie in the 12th district (Meidling, for the uninitiated) is the one restaurant in the last six months that I've completely fallen for. From the outside, Goldmarie looks just dilapidated enough to be tragically hip and bohemian. As soon as I opened the old wooden door, I knew I had arrived.

Ambience is usually challenging to describe, so I will let the images do it justice. Suffice it to say that I felt immediately transported to a place at the turn of the century where the traditional Gasthaus (traditional, basic restaurant) was the center of the neighborhood, where people congregated in the evenings to have a beeer or two (or three, or four). The place has what appear to be original wood floors, charming antique furniture stock-full of gorgeous trinkets, a mid-sized sun-filled dining room, a high dark-wood counter straight out of 1920, and -- white tablecloths. I'm a sucker for white tablecloths (high-end restaurants: please take notice).

The prices are very crisis-friendly, with daily menus (which include soup or salad) at 5.90 Euro.My twin sister, Dagmar, and I both ate Eiernockerln (roughly: pasta dumplings with eggs) with a green salad, and they were as good as at any restaurant at double the price. Whenever I eat out in Austria, I like to order organic, naturally "cloudy" apple or pear juice mixed with water. Goldmarie featured an especially delightful liquid -- it was fantastic: refreshing and light., very appropiate for a spring-like day. The lunch menu was solidly dominated by reliable Austrian staples (including Schnitzel, baked mushrooms, Gulasch, etc.) and judging by the happy (multilingual) voices at the other tables, everyone else was as happy as we were.

As we dug in, we marveled at the fact that not more places like this exist. They should, and they deserve our business and our praise. We promised our friendly server (owner?) that we'd tell our friends about it, and how couldn't we? So, when you are in Vienna, take the U-6 metro (direction Siebenhirten) and get out at Philadelphiabruecke. From there, it's a 5-minute walk to one of the best neighborhood restaurants I've eaten at lately. Sure, it's not the first district, but you won't find a restaurant like this in a touristy area anyway.

As opposed to most restaurants in Austria, Goldmarie is open all day on Sunday.

Gasthaus Goldmarie (website in German only)
Hoffmeistergasse 7
1120 Vienna, 12th district (Meidling)
Phone: 01/817-0158


--By Judy Jenner

Vegas Food Finds Loves Viennese Street Food

Vienna is known, among other things, for its fantastic little stands (Würstlstand in "Austrian") that sell sausages of all kinds. Late-night opera goers, dressed in evening gowns, have been known to grab a snack at these humble, very egalitarian places, and I've loved them since I was a kid. Sure, they are not fancy, and you have to stand while eating your Käsekrainer (a sausage with cheese), but it's, well, very Austrian. And it's really good, albeit not healthy. During my seven weeks in Europe, we've made many stops at these little stands, mainly in the first district.

The selection is usually pretty good, and there are sausages of all kinds, with a strong emphasis on Frankfurter, Käsekrainer, Bratwurst, Weisswurst, etc. The mini-meal usually comes with your choice of a slice of fabulous dark bread or Semmel (roll) and a portion of sweet or spicey mustard (or ketchup, but mustard works much better). And yes, extra mustard is, well, extra. The plates are either covered in plastic or which a big piece of wax paper (sounds familiar from Mexican taco stands?) for easy cleaning. I've always loved the small, organized microcosmos that is the Würstlstand, and it's a true Austrian icon. It used to be really cheap, but it's really not anymore -- one sausage, including bread, usually runs in the 3 - 4 Euro range.

--By Judy Jenner

Vegas Food Finds Goes to Vienna: Café Hofburg

So much for not reviewing coffee houses: I just can't stay away. In my quest to visit as many traditional Viennese cafés as possible during my stay, we went to the venerable Café Hofburg, located in the middle of the very impressive Hofburg (Imperial Palace). It sits on a gorgeous, very large inside patio, which makes for fantastic outdoor seating in the summer. On this rainy and chilly day, we took refuge inside.

Just a warning: sure, it's pricey. The coffee will run you 4.20 Euro (yes, on a silver tray, and this is per cup, not unlimited refills) and the same for the delectable slices of hard-to-beat Viennese cake art. For the same price, you could probably have brunch at Simon's in Vegas -- but this is so much better. The café has strange opening hours, as it's connected to the well-known Sisi museum, and closes at 6 p.m. in the winter, so come early.

The place is chic and very Viennese (comfortable tables, large windows, chandeliers, waiters in tuxedoes, painfully restored antique furniture) and service is unexpectedly friendly. If you are looking for a for-sure bet that is worth the many calories, this is your place, as the café gets its pastries from the capital's finest culinary outposts: Landtmann. You will never be able to eat a cake from Albertson's (or Costco, or even Freed's) again.

Café Hofburg (German only)
Open every day from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m.
1010 Vienna, First District
Inside the Imperial Palace (inside patio)
Phone: 01/24100-0

--By Judy Jenner

Vegas Food Finds Goes to Vienna: Café Hawelka

While we usually don't review coffee shops, we had to make an exception for the venerable and time-worn Café Hawelka, a true cultural institution in the heart of Vienna's posh first district.

Even though I am originally from Austria, I am still very drawn to coffee shops. I haven't lived here in more than a decade, so I cheerfully flock to any coffee shop I can get to, just so I can have a real cup of coffee on a tiny silver tray with a small glass of tap water. This is how coffee should be served, in my humble opinion. It's not Starbucks, and that's a good thing.

Even though most of these places are still for smokers (in spite of a recently introduced, complicated non-smoking-area law), I am still, for some reason, totally delighted. It must be my nostalgia for all things Austrian. While my twin isn't amused by smoky rooms, rude waiters and furniture that's long past its prime, I still enjoy it. It's just so different from Vegas.

Café Hawelka tops the list of gently run-down coffee shops and certainly wouldn't last very long in the U.S. However, it's not hard to picture past cultural greats sitting at nearby tables, as they have done in the café's long history. Sure, there was a draft coming from the windows, which were, well, old. Legend has it that the place hasn't been renovated since the 60s, and it shows. The waiter, however, wasn't rude, and the coffee was top-notch. We stayed an extra hour just to get our hands on the famous Buchteln (an Austrian pastry filled with jam) that the place is known for -- they were delicious; straight out of the oven.

You'd think that because the place has seen better days, that the coffee would be cheap. It's not, but it's a historical place, and it's worth it. It's located a stone's throw from St. Stephen's cathedral (which, by the way, needs a good cleaning), and should be on any visitors' list:tourists, locals, and everyone in between.

Cafe Hawelka (forgive the horrendous translations!)
Dorotheergasse 6
1010 Vienna, First District
Phone: (01) 512 82 30

--By Judy Jenner

Vegas Food Finds Goes to Vienna: Zum roten Elefanten

Without doubt, one of my best meals in Vienna was at Zum roten Elefanten in the sixth district. Recommended by both the paper of record, close friends and my twin sister, we had to go and have a family dinner there.

Turns out our six o'clock reservation was not necessary, as the place was virtually empty, only to fill up very fast as the evening progressed. The restaurant is minimalist, small by American standards, with clean, clear lines and a nice bar. It certainky had all the characteristics of a great French restaurant, including tables that are very close together, which my father despises. Still, he was very pleased; and the food won him over. I'll tell you why.

In French style, Zum roten Elefanten (The red elephant) offers a prix fixe menu with a twist. You can order a full three-course menu with either soup or appetizer, entree and desert or order any item a la carte at reasonable prices. We all chose the three-course combo, and my mille feuille with eggplant was light, crisp, and to-die for. My brother-in-law had the very traditional -- and downright excellent -- canard à l'orange, while my Dad chose the wish of the day. For desert, I chose the traditional crème brûlée, which certainly did it justice. My mom had the cheese platter, which consisted of a fantastic, small selection of artisan cheeses. The other desert option was a fantastic homemade gelato. The three-course menus run between 18 and 22 Euro.

We accompanied our lavish meal with two bottles of excellent red Austrian Zweigelt. Service was efficient and uncomplicated, and the dining room was run by one affable waiter, as is customary in Europe. However, he did a good job at keeping our glasses filled and our food moving at an appropiate speed. The only thing missing from the place are white tablecloths. What can I say: I am a sucker for white tablecloths: it just adds an extra ounce of sophistication to everything.

Zum roten Elefanten is a fantastic choice for a traditional French meal in Vienna. They are also open for lunch.

Zum roten Elefanten (website in German only)
Gumpendorferstrasse 3
1060 Vienna, Sixth District
Phone: (01) 966 8008

--By Judy Jenner

Vegas Food Finds Goes to Berlin

During our trip to Berlin to attend the Berlinale film festival and visit family, we dove right into the very diverse Berlin culinary scene. With more than 7,000 restaurants in town and a very eclectix mix of cultures and cuisines, Berlin is a true culinary wonderland.

We were staying in one of former East Germany's old working-class neighborhoods, which now is one of the trendiest parts of town: Prenzlauer Berg. In addition to spectacularly beautiful buildings with incredible details and graffiti art that somehow looks good here but would make me cringe in Vegas, Prenzlauer Berg literally has four restaurants at each corner. This is exactly what I miss about Europe: being able to go outside and walk to a restaurant. Thai. Sushi. Mauretanian. Tapas. Traditional German. Fair trade and all organic. Fondue: take your pic.

Following the advice of a major German magazine, we headed to Ars Vini, the city's foremost fondue restaurant. We'd spent the day sightseeing and watching a movie at the Berlinale, and fondue sounded just right. Located in a small, cozy space on a cobblestone street, Ars Vini is a charming little place. With less than a dozen tables and wine-bottle lined walls, this is a restaurant where you can sit for a long time and talk without being brought the unsolicited bill. The downside of this is, of course, that many times you have to be on look out for the waitress, who was running the room by herself (not unusual in Europe). Occassionally, she was also just hanging out with customers and sharing a drink (I know, this doesn't happen in the U.S.)

We wanted to share a bottle of Rioja but were confused: no wine list, but a note saying they really thought that personal recommendations were best. Interesting approach. After several tries, we ended up with a decent red, which was neither from Spain nor as dry as we wanted, but good enough. We were stunned that the waitress filled our glasses to the rim. Not very elegant, but certainly more bang for the euro.

Ars Vini has a large and eclectic fondue menu, at higher-end prices for Berlin (dinner for two, with only one full fondue order and wine, was 60 euro). We went for a traditional meat fondue (combination of pork, shrimp, and beef) with several good dips (the BBQ dip missed the mark, though) and a small side salad. We chose to cook the meat in broth rather than oil, which makes for a lighter meal. We sat at our comfortable, rustic wood table, nibbled on the hearty bread, cooked our meat, and enjoyed the smoke-free (!) ambiance. We heroically resisted the several tempting chocolate fondues for dessert and for some reason also turned down the on-the-house digestive. All in all, a great evening. It's not The Melting Pot, and that's a good thing.

Ars Vini
Dunckerstrasse 78
10437 Berlin (Prenzlauer Berg neighborhood)

--By Judy Jenner

Vegas Food Finds Goes to Vienna

During my six-week work/vacation combination to Austria and Germany, I have eaten many fantastic things. Delicious little food stands with amazing street food are around very corner, and don't even get me started on all the Torten, Topfengolatschen, Krapfen, multi-grain bread (the kind you have to cut with a knife). I am in foodie heaven!

Today we went to a very hip place in Vienna's 9th district, which opened a few years to much media attention and skepticism/doubt about its survival. It's one of those restaurants where you pay whatever you think is fair. Here, in a poor Denglisch (German/English) line, this+
is called "Pay as you wish", but you get the point. The place is very chic and bohemian, and it's billed as Pakistani food. I am a frequent and passionate eater of Indian food, and couldn't quite tell the difference, which is not surprising.

Deewan offers a-la-carte drinks, even wine and beer (heck, in Austria even the kepab place at the corner has a liquor license), and we had delicious mango lassi: my drink of choice in these places. The food is served buffet-style, very reminiscent of Vegas Indian buffetts (India Palace, India Oven, Gandhi), and consists of five or six main dishes (two curries, lentils, spinach, etc.) and a sweet dish, which we didn't try as we were headed to the bakery instead. Everything is very fresh and the place is appealing as soon as you walk in. It's a little bit like walking into a private home: it feels that nice and cozy, and the aroma is great.

As expected, people here are young, forward-thinking and dress the part: we saw lots of cute summer dresses with tights and warm cardigans, skinny jeans and high-heeled boots. It's a fun place that deserves to continue doing very well. For the record, we both ate a small plate of food and paid 6 euro each.

Der Wiener Deewan
Liechtensteinstr. 10
9th District, Vienna
Subway stop: Schottentor (U2)
Tel.: 01/9251185

--By Judy Jenner

Sedona: Forget Happy Hour

In these troubled economic times, restaurants are finding it challenging to keep their doors open. Sadly, many fantastic places in town have recently closed their doors, including Sapporo (best happy hour in town), Sea Stone (that particular corner in Boca Park appears to be cursed), Louis's Las Vegas and Fish Camp at Town Square (where else could you eat alligator prepared by a well-known chef?), and many more.

The restaurants that are alive and well are busy coming up with creative and interesting ways to keep diners coming. Surely you will have noticed the coupons in the mail, the ladies' night drink specials, the early bird specials, the extended happy hours, etc. Interestingly enough, Sedona on West Flamingo and 215, site of one of our favorite patios in town, does not have a happy hour, unless it happens to be Friday.

As I don't plan my happy hours on a specific day, I met up with a good friend at Sedona on a lots-of-empty-tables and near-deserted-bar Tuesday. Our semi-friendly waiter seemed surprised when I asked him about happy hour, and went on to tell us that it's only on Fridays. However, we could get a bottle of wine at half off, which didn't help, as I wanted a gin and tonic. No conveniently-priced appetizers, either. Since we were there and were hungry, we had drinks and dinner anyway. The food and drinks are quite tasty at Sedona, but we also like good value and customer appreciation programs of some sort. Next time we will head to any number of bars and restaurants that offer fantastic deals. For instance, the day before we went to Brio's at Town Square: can't beat their great selection of appetizers at $2.25 during happy hour.

Sedona Lounge
9580 West Flamingo Road
Las Vegas, NV 89147
Phone: (702) 320-4700

--By Judy Jenner